Nga Tapuwae o Ihu: Pilgrimage in the Holy Land

It has been said that one doesn’t go to Jerusalem, one returns to it. And after travelling sixteen thousand kilometres over two days our ope, those who had been before and waewae tapu alike, truly felt like we had returned.

Nestled amidst the ancient landscapes of te Whenua Tapu, Hiruhārama (Jerusalem) is at once strange and familiar. Home to diverse cultures and central and sacred to so many whakapono, we know we’re manuhiri in that whenua, but we also know that we are indelibly connected to it through a Rongopai that has shaped us for centuries, and the world for millennia.

A First of Its Kind

For our Mihinare rōpū, our haerenga, from 28 June to 8 July, was a first in more ways than one. Not only did we engage in a haerenga crafted exclusively for us as a Māori ope, with 19 participants from Te Tairāwhiti and Te Waipounamu, but we also integrated online learning with our physical pilgrimage.

Spiritual Reflections and Moments of Serenity

Throughout the pilgrimage, our connection to whenua, whakapapa, and pūrākau deepened. Visits to the Mt of Olives and the Old City of Hiruhārama and the Whare Karakia of the Holy Sepulchre – the site of Ihu’s crucifixion, burial, and resurrection – the Jordan River – where we renewed our baptismal vows – Nazareth and Lake Galilee – where Ihu grew and ministered – and Mt Tabor – where Ihu was transfigured – all places closely tied to Te Karaiti’s ministry, allowed us to reflect deeply on the Rongopai and our whakapono and callings. We prayed, we wondered, we cried, we sang, we anointed one another with oil, we shared in Kai Hapa, and we stood dumbfounded and in awe (and some also found time to do some shopping).

Complexities of Coexistence and Peace

Amidst the wonders of this sacred land, our ope was also confronted with the complexities of coexistence and divisions. Going through security checks to visit sites like the Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock highlighted the power of shared reverence and the need for respect and appreciation among diverse faith traditions. In the town of Peterehama (Bethlehem), the imposing concrete taiapa separating communities and encroaching on whenua served as a stark reminder of the challenges faced by the local people. The rōpū reflected on the power of understanding and rongo(peace) in the face of such challenges.

Prayers for a World of Harmony

On our last day we retraced the Way of the Cross, in the Old City, walking in the footsteps of Te Karaiti’s suffering. Each station became a tapu encounter, infused with karakia, prayers, and contemplation. The journey concluded with a final Kai Hapa at Emmaus, where we reflected on Te Karaiti’s sacrifice and a timeless yet ever urgent message of aroha and redemption. The haerenga, filled with profound moments of spiritual connection and cultural appreciation left our rōpū deeply inspired to strive for peace, love, and understanding in a world often marred by division and conflict.

Building on this year’s success plans are already underway, expanding the number of Hui Amorangi involved, for next year’s haerenga.

The Ven Michael Tamihere is Tumuaki (Principal) of Te Rau Theological College in Gisborne, this article was first published in the August 2023 issue of He Kupu Whakamarama.

For more images and reflections on the haerenga you can visit Te Rau Theological College on Facebook.